Scotland: Links Coast to Coast

Land in Edinburgh and step into a city that looks carved rather than built. Your driver meets you airside. The Balmoral's clock has run three minutes fast since 1902 so that nobody misses a train from Waverley below, and it is the right place to begin. The evening is deliberately unhurried: a private tutored tasting among the rare bottles of the Explorers' Bothy at Johnnie Walker Princes Street, then a table at The Kitchin in Leith, where Tom Kitchin has held his Michelin star for twenty years.